ANDREI TARKOVSKY – THROUGH THE ARTIST EYE
by Jessie Emkic

“What are you reading?” asks a man’s voice.
“Arseny Tarkovsky’s poems,” answers a woman in Italian.

“In Russian?”
“No, it’s a translation... quite a good one.”
“Throw it away,” the man says.
“Why? The translator’s a very good poet,” she responds.
“Poetry is untranslatable,” he continues, “like all art.”

“You may be right that poetry is untranslatable," she says, "but what about music? Music’s for example...”
He interrupts her speech and begins to sing a tune in Russian.
She smiles cynically: "What do you mean by that, what do you want to say?”

“It’s a Russian song,” he replies.

“But how could we have got to know Tolstoy, Pushkin (without translation) and so understand Russia?”
“None of you understand Russia,” the man exhales.

“Nor you Italy then," she says, "if Dante, Petrarch and Machiavelli don’t help."

"It's impossible for us poor devils," he utters.

"How can we get to know each other?" she asks him.
"By destroying frontiers."
"Which frontiers?"

"Between states," he replies.

Stalker, 1979, Andrej Tarkovskij
This conversation was taken from Andrei Tarkovsky's film 'Nostalgia'. The frontiers Tarkovsky speaks about are not only the frontiers of our countries, or the cultural and linguistic frontiers we may encounter. It is the frontiers of the mind as well, he speaks about, the frontiers the person carries within oneself.

'Nostalgia' was the very first film that Tarkovsky made outside Russia. Undoubtedly one of the greatest filmmakers of all time, he was born in the Soviet Union in 1932. He studied cinema and enjoyed great success in both the Soviet Union and outside. But the Soviet authorities grew displeased with Tarkovsky’s personal portrayals of people's lives, which seemed to pose elementary questions about human existence. Lacking financial means to make further films, Tarkovsky was forced to send a letter to the Soviet authorities asking for a cinematographic assignment for he was so poor that he was not only unable to make films, but unable to feed his family. The pressure on him not subsiding, Tarkovsky left Russia in order to continue making films, settling at first in Italy. This is where the story of 'Nostalgia' begins, of the film, and the reflection on Tarkovsky's own personal nostalgia.

Tarkovsky used cinematic poetry to portray the inner process of the protagonist Gorchakov as he travells through Italy, researching for his book. In fact, the protagonist Gorchakov is Tarkovsky, and like Tarkovsky, Gorchakov searches for answers to existential questions, he searches to explore human relationships through the experience of consciousness, moving from general to personal and back, recollecting the memories of his childhood, his mother and his native land. But Gorchakov’s character has an embellishing flaw - he is dying of nostalgia.

"The film became the echo of my own suffering," Tarkovsky said in an interview, adding that nostalgia “is in fact an illness that removes strength from the spirit, the capacity to work and even the pleasure of living”.

"It is a moral suffering of the spirit," he said. "Those who cannot overcome it, die."

Asked during an interview why he doesn't believe it is enough for us to visit one another, to meet and talk, to exchange art, to travel, asked why we won't understand one another by the means of communication, Tarkovsky replied with a symbolic statement "man is bound to his culture so closely that for one to understand the culture of another, he must, as we say in Russia, 'eat a ton of salt together'!"

To paraphrase Susan Sontag "if you want to know what people are truly like, go and live with them." Eat with them, be with them, live with them. In order to understand the other we must not just pay attention to words, meanings, sentences, ideas, interpretations of history, and distorted pictures. We must share our lives with others, those different from us. And indeed, it wasn't that long ago a tradition was practiced by Austrian and Czech families living on the shared border: for a period of time, Austrian families would send their children to live with Czech host families and learn Czech language, and Czech families would send their kids to the Austrian side to learn German. The children would learn each others languages, each others life-styles, cuisine and another way of thinking. And they would learn how to get along and live together.

Tarkovsky's cinema introduced us to the universal within the individual, the individual as a part of the universe. He introduced us to a poem, which speaks in pictures of the entire universe being contained in one single person. It is a single person who is a part of nature and the four elements. The nature is not an adversary, but a vehicle to transcend the borders of that, which is apprehensible only by language, by its name, and reach a spiritual realm, which is known and present, but cannot be named. So many questions about the human condition, and they always dissolve to a single one: Who am I?

And the answer to that question is: 'I am'.

When we are born we are given a name by which other people recognize us. We are given a birth date to go along with the name, and we are told our gender. Then we are told the names of things and people surrounding us, subsequently we are told about the world, what is good and what is bad, what we are allowed to do and what not. At some point, we will learn how to walk and explore the world on our own. We will attain habits and learn to talk. Subsequently we will be told which religion we belong to, or if we have one. And then at some other point, we will hear that we are going to die one day. We are born and we die. We will be told about God, about others who are different from us, which country we come from and what our people are called. Later we will be told other things too, more personal, more intimate things. We will of course experience sensations and create ideas about what we are like, what the world is like. We will start thinking, remembering, identifying ourselves with our ideas, our mind. In short, we will become a person. At this stage we already identify with the 'I-am-my-body' idea and this is where the suffering starts. We take what we believe to know to be the true, to be an indisputable fact. We believe things on hearsay and identify with them, we read about the world in books and newspapers, watch it on TV, we even believe to find proofs of our ideas in what surrounds us, we fantasize.

But where is this 'I' that I seem to know so well in the waking state, when I am sleeping? Where is this 'I' when I am dreaming? And where is this ‘I’ when I’m in dreamless sleep?' Tarkovsky used his art not to find answers to these questions, but as a means to explore them.

For Tarkovsky, his camera lens was the eye he looked himself with. He observed himself by observing birch forests, nature, grass, childhood memories, the sky at dawn and sun rising, the air of the country. He wasn’t afraid to observe himself through someone else’s face, projecting his own image onto the screen and seeing the other. He showed us the human imagination, the dreams, the relationships, the emotions, the passing of time, life, death, and the Great Unknown. The cinema was the mirror he could observe himself in, detached from the world, unaffected by events, compassionate to his characters and above all, humble.

Observing his image in the mirror Tarkovsky saw himself, and discovered the other. He became the astronaut, the stalker, the translator, the dog, the poet, the man, the woman, the artist, the violinist, the desperate Italian translator, the Spaniard in Russia, the Russian in Italy, the stutterer who gets healed through hypnosis, the orphaned child of war. He became the world and the world became him.

"For me, cinema is simply an original way to create a new universe," he once said.
Let us speak with the language of the cinema, let us have the pictures speak for themselves.

Film Program
Filmmuseum in Vienna will be showing a retrospective of Andrei Tarkovsky’s films in March 2009. Special guests on March 5th and 6th include Margarita Terekhova (protagonist in "The Mirror"), Nikolay Burlyaev (lead actor in "Ivan's Childhood" amongst other roles), the actor Yuri Nazarov and the great cinematographer Vadim Yusov, who was responsible for the visual style of Tarkovsky's films up to and including "Solaris".

Watch
Andrei Tarkovsky talks about art and spirituality.

Similar articles
CINEMATIC ARCHITECTURE
HARUN FAROCKI’S EIN BILD / AN IMAGE
KÖRKARLEN / THE PHANTOM CARRIAGE
Click Here to Read More..

KÖRKARLEN / THE PHANTOM CARRIAGE *
Victor Sjöström (Sweden, 1921)
by Jessie Emkic

Victor Sjöström’s (pronounced Shöström) 1921 adaptation of Selma Lagerlöf’s short novel “Körkarlen/The Phantom Chariot” is a cinematographic masterpiece of the silent film era: the double (in some scenes even triple) exposure and modernity of the camera shots were revolutionary at the time of its making. Even though the passage of time may have deprived it of much of the surprise effect it had on its audiences, this film is still one of the finest cinematographic works ever accomplished. Remarkable performances and a complex plot add significantly to viewer’s experience, particularly due to Sjöström’s very personal portrayal of the protagonist David Holm. The structure of the film and its skilfully conceived cutbacks make even repeated viewing a delight. None of the subsequent versions of Lagerlöf’s novel have reached the power of Sjöström’s original.

Next to Mauritz Stiller, Sjöström is Sweden’s greatest filmmaker of the silent cinema era. Those who remember Ingmar Bergman’s 1957 “Smultronstället/ Wild Strawberries” will remember 78-year old Sjöström in his sensitive portrayal of Dr. Isak Borg. Bergman, whose favourite film was indeed “Körkarlen”, admired his friend and mentor greatly. It was thanks to Sjöström’s influence as the artistic director of Svensk Filmindustri that young Bergman changed his behaviour and working style after causing a minor riot among his co-workers who were alarmed by Bergman’s quarrelsome and unstable temper. Sjöström’s deep insight into human psychology gives a particular note to his filmmaking. As in many of his films, Sjöström combined the task of directing with playing the lead in “Körkarlen”, shining with his masculine charisma in the role of David Holm. His radiant blue eyes speak the language of Holm’s soul: he is a self-destructive tubercular alcoholic bringing misfortune upon whomever he encounters, a dark angel whose future is mirrored in the desolate bottom of a whiskey bottle. His contempt for the human race reflects itself in his inextinguishable desire to spread the disease he carries. He coughs in people’s faces hoping to infect them, does so on an occasion even to his wife and children. “Why should they have it better than we do?” he answers when his demeanour is questioned by the goodhearted salvation army nurse Edit (Astrid Holm), who unselfishly spends the night patching up his torn coat in a newly opened hospital, unconcerned about the stench fumes and the TB virus she is breathing in. Edit falls ill as a consequence. A moribund patient, her last wish is to see David Holm before she dies.

David, with his morbid sarcasm, inner rottenness and devastating indifference towards himself and others is an impersonation of human malevolence. He is the ultimate villain, the despicable individual upon whom justice can only be exercised in form of harsh, equally measured sanctions. Sjöström doesn’t only let David look malicious, he impersonates the character without using any make-up whatsoever. How he naturally succeeded in looking so sick, so devastated with deep dark circles around his eyes, curvy back, languish walk and hanging cheeks, demonstrates what unique qualities Sjöström possessed as an actor reminiscent of Marlon Brando and James Dean. The only person who harbours hope for David’s redemption in this human hell is Edit, the very person David doesn’t fail to humiliate on every given occasion. Edit’s affection for David is of such zealous force that her mere existence seems to have emerged from a desperately naïve love for him. She cannot but see the basic good confined in the cell of his soul, a man in his own right who had once been a loving husband and father before being delivered to alcohol, illness and destruction. For Edit, David is a man for whom there is still hope of waking up and the spell that needs to be cast for this to happen is her unconditional love. The crucial scene in the film takes place on New Year’s Eve. The clocks are about to strike midnight at the cemetery where David, drunk on the verge of madness, is telling the legend of the phantom chariot to two equally intoxicated vagabonds. According to the legend, a phantom in his chariot arrives to take the souls of those who pass away at midnight on New Year’s Eve. Those souls who committed bad deeds are doomed to take the phantom’s place and endure the suffering of watching the moribund die until redeemed by another sinner. Unexpectedly, their conversation turns into quarrel with possible death as outcome: David is knocked unconscious by one of the vagabonds. The clock strikes twelve and the phantom chariot materializes.

The scene of David’s soul rising up from the body (shot by the legendary cinematographer Julius Jaenzon) is argumentatively one of the most gripping scenes ever produced in the history of cinema. Terrified of accepting the fact he is dead, he covers his ears with his hands trying to escape the new reality that has come into existence, but nothing can be compared to this raw horror of complete disorientation and decay. The phantom turns out to be David’s old friend Georges (Tore Svennberg), the very one who is to be blamed for David’s downfall into dark pitch of alcoholism and self-destruction.

The storyline of Lagerlöf’s 1912 “Körkarlen/The Phantom Chariot” is similar to Dickens’ “A Christmas Carol”: both stories deal with a particular time in life of a capricious protagonist whose main idiosyncrasy is a rotten character, and whose Weltanschauung changes radically when he encounters a ghost, or several ghosts as in the case of Dicken’s story. Both storylines deal with parallel realities – the reality on the material plane experienced by the protagonist through five senses and the reality on the paranormal plane invisible to anyone else but the protagonist. The crucial difference though, is the topic itself the stories deal with: “A Christmas Carol” has the charitable spirit of Christmas as its leitmotif and appeals to the consciousness of wealthy but selfish-greedy individuals; “The Phantom Chariot” is deprived of religious insinuations. It doesn’t deal with the lack of good-heartedness of a single rich man, but with the lives of the working class in modern society. The plot is set in one of Sweden’s numerous slums during the industrial revolution where the poor, the ill and the desperate are left to the mercy of the local Salvation Army hospital at best, at worst to their own devices - a circumstance widely spread across Europe at the time and severely criticized by Lagerlöf among others, as well as by her contemporary Oscar Wilde. Just as Wilde exercised fierce criticism of intricate class divisions within British society and the ruthlessness of people in power, prominently in his essay “The Soul of Man Under Socialism”, Lagerlöf exercised a harsh critic of Swedish society. Both writers arrive at the conclusion that a society, which can’t provide for basic needs of its members – housing, food, employment, social care and justice – will not succeed as a society in the long run. That a desperate person will turn into a criminal is just a logical consequence of an unbearable life, not a basic trait in human character as some might insist. This basic difference in thinking, as much as recognition of minorities as equals, was what led Scandinavian countries to develop their social welfare systems introducing maximum civil liberties benefitting all members.

Selma Lagerlöf
It is interesting to note both Lagerlöf and Wilde were gay at a time when alone the word “homosexual” was enough to ruin a person’s life. Taking them as examples of how societies they lived in treated minorities, one can clearly see the political directions their countries were taking at the beginning of 20th century: Selma Lagerlöf became the first woman ever to receive the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1910, whereas Oscar Wilde was sentenced to prison on the charges of homosexual conduct. Years spent under inhumane and humiliating prison conditions ruined his life, reputation and health. He came out as a broken man and died shortly after in Paris. Perhaps here lies an explanation to why there was shockingly little resistance coming from British population when their civil rights were being abolished in the name of War on Terrorism in 21st century, almost sixty years after the Universal Declaration of Human Rights in Paris. Such a decision on political level would have possibly caused a revolution in Sweden where civil liberties are considered sacred, unchangeable at the arbitrary will of politicians.

Svensk Filmindustri has recently been restoring its pioneer silent movies, subsequently releasing them as DVD editions. I’ve had a chance to see the new version of “Körkarlen” on the big screen at the Viennese Filmmuseum during the retrospective of the Swedish silent movies in November 2008. The restoration is indeed astonishingly well done. One detail though has caught my eye – the American coloration of the film (blue, pink and yellow tones) I find unnecessary and superfluous. The black and white contrasts as conceived by Sjöström are practically rendered invisible. Colouring neither emphasizes a black and white film nor does it make the film more interesting to watch, on the contrary. It diminishes much of the film’s visual power, as “Körkarlen” is not only technically a masterpiece, but artistically too. The screening at the Filmmuseum was accompanied by a live performance of the Swedish band Panoptikon Orchestra whose member Matti Bye composed an innovative and emotional score using various instruments ranging from piano to musical saw, emphasizing the haunting mood of “Körkarlen”.



* (also known as The Phantom Chariot, The Stroke of Midnight, Thy Soul Shall Bear Witness)



“Körkarlen” has been restored and released by Svensk Filmindustri in a 6-DVD box together with “Terje Vigen”, “Sir Arne’s treasure/ Herr Arnes pengar”, “Erotikon”, “Häxan/Witchcraft”, “The Story of Gösta Berling/Gösta Berlings saga”. All films include plentiful of extras, music composed by Matti Bye of the Panoptikon Orchestra and can be purchased at SvalanderAudio.

Watch
Körkarlen, Victor Sjöström (Sweden, 1921)

Listen
Panoptikon Orchestra’s samples of Körkarlen

See also
The Soul of Man under Socialism, Oscar Wilde, 1891

Similar articles
ANDREI TARKOVSKY – THROUGH THE ARTIST EYE
HARUN FAROCKI’S EIN BILD / AN IMAGE
CINEMATIC ARCHITECTURE
Click Here to Read More..

HISTORY LESSON N#1:
'Shoot the dog before the dog shoots you'




Sing along

GTi, Hot Shot,
He parks it there,just to piss me off.
Bullyboy, gonna show ya who's tough,
I'm gonna shoot the dog, I'm gonna shoot the dog

It's party time, everyday
I spent Saturday night on Novocaine
Called the pigs, but nobody came
I'm gonna shoot the dog, I'm gonna shoot the dog (come on ladies)

Nine nine nine gettin' jiggy
People did you see that fire in the City?
It's like we're fresh out of democratic,
Gotta get yourself a little something semi-automatic yeahh

That's why I'm always gettin' stoned yeah
That's why I'm out there havin' fun again
Good puppy, good puppy
Rolling on over

Mustapha
Mazeltov,
The Gaza Boys,
All that holy stuff.
I got the feelin' when it al goes off,
They're gonna shoot the dog, they're gonna shoot the dog

So, Cherie my dear,
Could you leave the way clear for sex tonight?
Tell him
"Tony Tony Tony, I know that your horny, but there's
somethin bout that Bush ain't right"

Nine nine nine gettin' jiggy
People did you see that fire in the City?
It's like we're fresh out of democratic,
Gotta get yourself a little something semi-automatic yeahh

That's why I'm always gettin' stoned yeah
That's why I'm out there havin' fun again
Good puppy, good puppy
Rolling on over for The Man...

The Ayatollah's gettin' bombed yeah,
See Seargeat Bilko havin fun again,
Good puppy, good puppy
Rollin on over for The Man...

I believe, I believe what the old man said
Tough I know that there's no lord above
I belive in me, I believe in you
And you know I believe in love
I believe in truth though I lie a lot
I fell the pain from the push and shove
No matter what you put me through
I'll still believe in love
And I say

Cherie Baby, Spliff up
I wanna kick back mama
And whatch the world cup whith ya baby
Yeah, that's right!
We're gettin freeky tonight
Stay whith me tonight
Let's have some fun while Tony's stateside
It's gonna be alright
It's gonna be alright
See Tony dancing whith Dubya
Don't you wanna know why?

Shoot the Dog, George Michael

Click Here to Read More..

(IN)VISIBILITY OF THE EXPERIENCE
PARADES & CHANGES, REPLAYS: Interview with Anne Collod
by Jessie Emkic

Anne Collod is French choreographer and co-founder of the Albrecht Knust Quartett, which focuses on re-enacting choreographies of the early 20th century. In 2003 she made a trip to San Francisco to meet Anna Halprin, an essential figure in the field of Modern Dance and one of the main investigators of performance art. Fascinated by Halprin’s body of work and personality Collod collected sets of scores, handwritten notes and other archive materials in order to re-enact Halprin’s 1965 performance Parades & Changes. The critically acclaimed reinterpretation parades & changes, replays premiered in 2008 in collaboration with internationally renowned artists Alain Buffard, DD Dorvillier, Vera Mantero, Nuno Bizarro and others.

Jessie Emkic: In parades & changes, replays the performers wear office suits as costumes, dressing and undressing in the course of the performance. It was very interesting to watch this process involving construction and deconstruction of the role clothes play in your perception of a person. It seems as if clothes don’t provide identity but express how you wish to be seen by others.

Anne Collod: I think that yes, it is a kind of playing with ourselves and being on the social stage of the daily life. And some people are very inventive and free about that. There is this possibility of freedom, but I think it’s not used enough. Many people just use the codes they have around them, codes they are trained to play with as to construct their identity. I took part in Anna Halprin’s workshop where we would use these dress codes to practice with. You could play different roles and pretend to be someone else. Anna is always mixing work and daily life, but I think her work is truly real life. You can have a workshop for an entire day and in the evening she might say, “Okay, the score tonight is about getting costumed.” So, you’d have to choose three pieces of garment and get dressed. Very often we’d have a real dinner with some rules on how to eat and how to make your neighbor eat and be totally passive, or to change the rules and things like that. After a while she’d usually goes to bed, because she’d be tired and we’d just continue partying. Her way of using clothes is amazing: she’s 88-years old and she can change three times a day. In the morning she arrives wearing big hats and she’s always very elegant. She’s totally like a star, always performing in a certain way, and I like that. For an aged woman it’s very strong.

JE: Anna Halprin’s Parades & Changes was originally made in 1965. I think 1960s were a time when clear distinction between cinema and performance was watered down. For some reason I thought of Ingmar Bergman’s Persona, because like parades & changes, replays it deals with social costumes and it’s probably the very first commercially successful hybrid between performance and cinema in history. There is a tension that is always present, like you see in your interpretation of Anna’s work, between restraint and sensual eroticism, but it never gets to the point where there is an actual physical act of making love.

AC: Yes, sure. The question of transgression, of very limiting social rules, the question of pleasure and freedom… I think people were just dying to recover some areas of freedom. I think the presence of nature is very important in Bergman’s films and Anna is totally influenced by it too. She says the major change in her work came when she moved from East Coast to West Coast and once you know California it’s quite impossible to avoid this strong experience. The feeling of being in an amazing natural environment really helps with the way she deals with her work. Dancing outside amidst huge trees is totally different from the experience you get by dancing in the studio. One of the focuses of Californian art and research in 1960s was this question of phenomenology, of the relationship you have with sensorial experiences and how they build your way of thinking and relating to others and life. For Anna the visual sense is very important, but it doesn’t mean it has to overwhelm all other senses. Physical kinesthetic experience has to be primary and I think she is quite strong with that.

JE: I’m interested in that approach. I once read that in 9th century the Islamic philosophers of Iberia were exploring the possibility of proving God through sciences and came to the conclusion that it’s not possible to prove the existence of God through mathematics or physics, but that the divine can only be expressed through arts. I think Ingmar Bergman was exploring, apart from human psychology, what it means to be a human spiritually. For him it was the face that expresses what is not visible to the eye, a state of being, let’s say. This is something I found in parades & changes, replays and I think Anna also dealt a lot with communicating the non-sensorial experience to the audience.

AC: But also integrating what is visible to the eyes. What I get from 1960’s is the notion of moving away from all the questions of the presentation in a certain way, trying to move to the experience that does not need visibility. Actually, once you get on the stage you have to deal with visibility. And I am very interested in Anna's processes regarding that, because it doesn't mean that you have to avoid working towards the visibility or the visual aspect. It has more to do with how you relate or translate the visual into the muscle tone or the muscle tone into the visual, and how everything is built together. She really encourages people to develop these possibilities of being aware of all those dimensions together. The performer can also try to communicate by expressing empathy through the visual, so that the audience can really feel the muscle tone of someone on the stage, if this person is really aware of what he or she is doing. This question of the muscle tone is totally related to the emotional world. For me, relaxing your inner muscle tension totally lifts your emotional landscape and it's like ‘wow’! It's so amazing. But it's also subtle and you can bring in some elements of information by using the general posture or you can simply play with it on the stage. It’s a whole field of experiment.


Similar articles
CEREMONIES OF TRUST – PARADES & CHANGES, REPLAYS

photos © hicns, 2008
Click Here to Read More..

'TWO DIMENSIONAL SEXUALIZED TENNIS'



"The ultimate symbols of sexualised yuppiedom in Western hemisphere were so lush, exclusive and finite that the cult of the supermodel and of the two-dimensional sexualized tennis as diversion for both poverty stricken who can’t afford what they’re being sold and the wealthy who consume it every weekend, survived the 1980’s only as memorabilia, not fact."

Click Here to Read More

Click Here to Read More..

HARUN FAROCKI’S EIN BILD / AN IMAGE (1983, c. 25 Min., D)
by Jessie Emkic

The prospect of watching Harun Farocki’s Ein Bild, a 1983 documentary about a Playboy magazine photo shoot in Munich, was quite a delight to be excited about. I was familiar with Farocki’s writings on films, but haven’t had a chance to see any of his cinema works. His written words, heavily accentuated by his life philosophy, left me wondering how will a man who has himself so involved with visual poetry inspired by Jean-Luc Goddard and ‘resolute modernism’ in the spirit of Arthur Rimbaud and Charles Beaudelaire, approach a topic like sex photo shoot for a magazine of epic commercial proportions like Playboy. But Farocki has his ways and the results he produces are lofty.

What is instantly striking about Ein Bild is the incredible stylishness of the visual grammar and the immaculate precision in camerawork. Farocki relies solely on keeping it steady by gliding from shot to shot with a smoothness of quieted ocean. The viewer can dwell in the world of Playboy without having to take a dive in the existential turmoil of bunny plasticity as in The Girls Next Door, a Playboy reality show signed by Mr. Hugh Hefner himself. What makes the dwelling smoother, apart from Farocki’s input as director, is the minor but noteworthy distinction between German and American Playboy editions in their ideals of female beauty, wonderfully embodied in the model being photographed in the film. The American bunny mythology reels primarily around one body type characterized by large breasts, blond hair and European descent, generated according to Hugh Hefner’s personal choice of Playmates. After Hefner launched Playboy in December 1953 with Marilyn Monroe on the cover, what became known as the ‘Playmate’ type in the years to come gained wide popularity setting an awkward standard for ‘all-American’ female beauty (awkward when taking American ethnic diversity into consideration), but didn’t seem to hit men’s sex nerves outside North America as much. And so it happens that the model in Ein Bild is an elegant lean brunette with long wavy hair and medium sized breasts, a type one could even call untypical for Playboy, but highly en vogue in Germany at the time.

Farocki has proved that he’s a master in saying as he puts it, through images what cannot be - and is not - told in words. In this film, the audience is taken on a journey through four days of the photo session compressed in twenty-five minutes, capturing deep concentration and a constant drive for perfection hollowing the atmosphere in the Munich studio. The model, a beautiful woman who’s likely to be in her early twenties, is the centre of this visually generated dream with plentiful sexual subtexts. Any alluding to eroticism is instant and logical in the view of Playboy’s obvious purpose to sell itself by selling sex, but in the case of this film misleading: Ein Bild is not about how sexual curiosity functions commercially or about presenting erotica. It’s a quiet meditation on candid manipulation of visual perception, suggestive power of strategic sexuality as well as unleashing of creative demands, bringing a firm tension to the atmosphere in the film without making it feel overstretched.

To describe Farocki as one of the most illustrious chroniclers of our age is not an overstatement: With forty years in filmmaking behind him, he has made some eighty films dedicating himself to documenting, archiving and describing events that shape our world, but also reformulating them into the new art form of multi-screen installations. The historic events he documents, archives and describes are often left unexplained on the part of the filmmaker. In regards to Ein Bild the absence of an explanatory voice commenting images and sequences complements the blank crudity of pure pictures reflected in viewer’s personal thoughts perfectly. The pleasure it gave me was of reflection upon what was seen alone without having to rely on dictation. A contained approach of this kind is dangerous for a filmmaker who concentrates on the explanatory side of the film, setting out to guide viewer’s cognition of what is seen by adding narration spiced up with bona fide sardonicism to ease the psychological strain and increase entertainment in the neo-informative Actionist documentary style of Michael Moore, but for Farocki who moves with a hand as soft as conductor’s with Bach, his elegant economy of language and visual geometry speaks volumes. Harun Farocki - the political dimension in his choice of themes shouldn’t be underplayed - possesses a mind of a philosopher more than that of (public) opinion maker. The quiet distinction between Moore’s movies (underscored by Americana and action) and Farocki’s films (characterized by pensiveness and absence of dualism) is in their purpose, but implementation as well. Moore’s cinema works document historic events for mass information engaging at the same time in activism, whereas Farocki opts for a meditation on a historic event left more or less to be recognized as a relevant puzzle in greater scheme of things. This style allows not just envisioning contradictions and apparent incongruities as in Moore’s case, or connecting the past with the present linearly, but understanding the universal dynamic workings of complexities too. If you scratch the surface noticing you can dig a bit deeper, you’ll find paradoxes in everything and most unexpected connections between things. Although the neo-informative style of Actionist documentaries has emerged not only as new artistic expression with informational content (often using synthetic propositions grounded in facts, not meanings as suggested by the philosopher W.V. Quine as its philosophical base), but clearly a socio-political necessity as well, the style Moore skilfully implements in his works leaves me feeling mildly patronized and local. To put it in geographical terms, with Moore I think and feel the USA. With Farocki I think and feel the world.

Industrialy implemented sexuality

Ein Bild is not only a realistic depiction of a studio shoot, but also an allegory for engine driving the present-day turbo consumerism reeling around navigation, production and consumption of virtual (desires) and material products. It reminded me of what I used to see in my childhood, indeed in a heavy copy of American Playboy loaded with pictures of deeply suntanned women – and even few men – posing in all positions imaginable, bought and stashed away in a dusty drawer on a pile of glossy fashion magazines by my mother who took a great liking to ‘analysing’ women’s breasts. What remains in my memory from America’s outlook on sex of the 1980’s is commercially battled clash of cultures - tennis shoes combined with same-coloured headband on otherwise naked body and average face in Playboy clashing with burning red of Cindy Crawford’s lipstick and almond eyes in a Vogue headshot, some years before Anna Wintour took over as editor-in-chief insisting on cover shots with more body.

The ultimate symbols of sexualised yuppiedom in Western hemisphere were so lush, exclusive and finite that the cult of the supermodel and of the two-dimensional sexualized tennis as diversion for both poverty stricken who can’t afford what they’re being sold and the wealthy who consume it every weekend, survived the 1980’s only as memorabilia, not fact. The original purpose of any magazine is to promote and sell products, fantasies, ideas etc. and the images of semi-naked or barely dressed models in Playboy correlated strangely in a diagonal line to fashion bodies displayed in Vogue and Marie Claire - or maybe not so strangely. Nude or dressed, under the pretext of commerciality the individuals photographed sold same ice cream, coffee machines, clothes, beverages, perfumes and ideas concerning wealth, power, status, gender concepts and sex to a diverse audience spreading from teenagers rolling in the hay of puberty to suburban population dreaming of climbing the social ladder or keeping their position steady, in every corner of the world.

Although the industries have been on target for profit and expansion since the beginning of industrial revolution, the 1980’s marked a divine take off of the industrially implemented sexuality hype into medial and commercial space, without frontiers. It is the ‘state of the art’ that fashion sells sex and sex sells fashion, this with greater virtuosity today than ever before. The advertisements and media of 1980’s and 1990’s promoted a world of strict gender division and conservative values in numerous adds, colliding with diversified sexuality contesting moral values (catholic nun and priest kissing; black and white horse in coitus of Benetton) and androgynous grunge with a touch of pornography (Calvin Klein’s brand speciality in the 1990’s), the opposite streams have collided today in one big pot of eclecticism – welcome to the world of sophisticated metropolitan bisexuality. Why contest Vatican’s pulpit morals and risk irritating animal rights groups when you can potentially have both as customers? Why flirt with anorexia and male prostitution when you can be easily accessible to everyone regardless of age, creed, social and cultural background?

The ‘shock strategy’ concerning sex advertising industry used so successfully almost twenty years ago is of no relevance anymore: Urbanity vs. provinciality is not fought by using the face of androgynous Kate Moss to ‘educate’ about socio-sexual trends in metropolises around the globe or by starting a revolution. This is an outdated approach, paradoxical in its essence, a cobweb that demanded some dust removing. International trends and global movements today are not definable in easy terms whether it may concern fashion or politics, not only because they became more complex, but also because ignorant simplification bears the morbid stench of omissible mistakes turned fatal (the results of such futile megalomaniac enterprises as the War on Terrorism the world will only fully experience in the years to come, and opposite to Kate Moss’ persona the results aren’t likely to look pretty or turn to financial profit).

The images echoing global trends have been politically corrected. To sell an idea or product is a lot easier, commercially and creatively, if there’s no social critic implied and no potential risk of ‘offending’ someone with cash in the pocket. After all, it’s teenagers who underline “nose job” as top priority on their Christmas wish list and grown-ups who purchase the latest PlayStation model – not only in Los Angeles. The vast diversity of demand and supply in today’s commercial world can seem confusing. But in an environment where complexity is taking over rock hard, an individualised approach is far more effective than enforcing simplification by trying to break the rock asunder. This is the power critical advertisements can bear and common ones are likely to lack. Classical adverting scenes implying old fashioned family values and a mother whose pseudo-happiness is at the peak when she’s about to clean her son’s snotty nose with a four-layered hard-to-tear paper tissue, are more likely to cause an ironic sneer than to get the consumer in the mood for buying successfully. Synthesis instead of division integrated in the human thinking process might prove more productive.

The most accomplished example of the synthesis principle I have seen in the past years is the Nespresso campaign. Nespresso, probably the least ecological and most unneeded coffee related product on the market, is a success animal from head to claw. The material product itself is enclosed in a magic circle of never ending consumption – to have a Nespresso, as George Clooney suggests in the ad, the possession of the Nespresso coffee machine and the Nespresso capsule containing coffee is essential (switching to another coffee brand with same machine or controlling the amount of coffee used is impossible). The perfect circle of demand and supply contrived, the Nestlé Group owning Nespresso can dictate prices for their products as they please and keep the monopoly at the same time – a perpetuum mobile come true commercially. So much freedom to consume needs a potent symbol to be identified with. The makers who chose to have George Clooney as the ultimate Nespresso face could not have anticipated the success they would have. Clooney is the perfect conglomeration of masculine beauty, charm and sexiness. He has the quality of an interesting friend, a sex bomb, a family father, of simply someone to look at or be preoccupied with, a politically liberal actor in perfect synthesis with the elegant hi-tech product he advertises. Sophisticated, metropolitan, bisexual – the persona of George Clooney sparks desires and the potential to appeal to practically anyone, regardless of consumer’s age, gender, sexual orientation or geographical location, is enormous. Combined with clean fancy shops in which customers are made to feel important, Nespresso is argumentatively the most successful, least needed consumer product on the market, the end of its reign not yet in sight.

I can’t imagine sex developing into the key marketing strategy the way it did had there not been for Hefner’s Playboy. In Ein Bild, Farocki gives a tiny glimpse through a peephole of how human psychology works when confronted with sexual attraction as every day routine. With focus on production, the technical conversations the professionals have reveal their inability to consume the photographic object as that what it shall become once completed and on sale at the newsstands – a sexually charged, urban tableau vivant overexposed to the senses of its audiences who are more than willing to consume.

Harun Farocki’s Ein Bild can been viewed until January 31, 2009 at the OCA - Office for Contemporary Art Norway, Oslo

See also
Harun Farocki's official site
Playboy official site

Watch Farocki's films
Workers Leaving the Factory
Inextinguishable Fire

image top © harun farocki
other images © playboy

Click Here to Read More..

POP DELL'ARTE LIVE AT CABARET MAXIME
25.12.08




Everything you wanted to know about Pop Dell' Arte.
Click Here to Read More..

THE SOUND OF MONDAY
STEFAN SCHWANDER / ANTONELLI ELECTR.
by Hugo Oliveira























The first time you listen to Antonelli electr., one of the alter-egos of Stefan Schwander, you'll feel like saying 'I don’t want nobody else but you'. Born in Düsseldorf, Stefan Schwander is a pioneer of German contemporary music with the likes of Jörg Burger (The Modernist), Wolfgang Voigt and Thomas Brinkmann. What these composers and musicians all have in common is a style popular in Cologne's club culture for its combination of minimal musical elements and electronica.

To describe Schwander's music is as difficult as to describe the first kiss. Schwander created a new style in the 1990's, minimalistic and seductive, free of formulas, relying on inspiration by using several alter-egos - A Rocket in Dub, Repeat Orchestra, Rhythm_Maker and Swimmimgpool - to present musical ideas ranging from House Music to Dub and minimalistic experiments. Performing live as Antonelli electr., he uses only analogical technology to produce a powerful ocean of sound that shifts the music into a sensory machine to be inhabited by the listener.

Apart from working in music, together with Marc Knauer, Schwander founded the Italic label.
Italic features Little Annie & The Legally Jammin, Einmusik, Borneo & Sporenburg and Popnoname, to name a few.

Watch
I Don't Want Nobody Else But You (1998)
Automatic Music (1999)

Similar articles
THE SOUND OF FRIDAY – RAFAEL ANTON IRISARRI

See also
Matéria Prima
Oportunista

collage © Hugo Oliveira
Click Here to Read More..

A LETTER FROM TENTLAND
by Jessie Emkic

It was clear from the start that Iran’s Islamic Revolution would not bring equality to women, since just 15 days after it the government abolished the 1963 Family Protection Act, which had banned polygamy and the sole right of men to divorce. Ayatollah Khomeini and his supporters then went on to exclude women from public life by making it impossible for them to work (1) However, the situation has improved a little in the past few years and a few women have gained more access to public domains reserved for men, becoming more visible in the arts.
Those with international recognition, such as the young film director Samira Makhmalbaf, have been treated fairly tolerantly because of fears of protest outside Iran, while those working only for a national audience, such as the state television presenter Shirin, still struggle. Although her salary was good, her work became so restricted by her male bosses that it became impossible for her to continue.

“I loved my work,” she said, “but every day I had to change my speech and presentation, which always seemed to be too erotic, no matter what I did . . . if I smiled the reaction would be ‘Oh, no! You shouldn’t smile at all and if you do smile, don’t have your teeth showing.’ After some months I had to quit the job.”

Shirin had previously worked as an actress and dancer. She claims that even organising an authorised performance of dance is risky. “My colleague Leila did a performance with a group of female dancers in Tehran [for female audiences only] . . . The choreographer had a formal authorisation in writing from the Ministry of Culture and Islamic Guidance. As they were performing on the second night, a police minibus came behind the building and stopped the performance in the middle. The police told the performers to complete the last scene and after it ended they checked the dancers one by one and took them in the minibus to prison. A 14-year old among the dancers was taken to prison, too.”

Leila’s greatest love is singing, and she has trained to sing since childhood. Since there is no chance of her performing publicly she occasionally works as a dancer and actress: “I have to live on something, and dancing and acting offer a possibility of working in the arts. As a woman you don’t have many choices. We have no female singers in Iran, it’s prohibited for a woman to sing. There is an all-female choir: this used to be forbidden, now it’s allowed, but with restrictions. The choir can be heard on television, but you can’t see the singers. Their faces must remain hidden. In concerts you see them on stage, fully covered of course.”

The lack of clarity about the rules is a problem for women. Even the punishments for not observing the dress code are unclear. Leila said: “We are apparently all against God. Or against Muslims depending on how a local judge sees it. If my veil falls down I might be offending God or Muslims or both. The sentence might vary from a simple fine to two months in prison or even the death penalty. The authorities can do as they please and . . . the rules change daily.”

Leila has observed other changes in the mood of her city, Tehran: “To escape their gloomy everyday lives, many Iranians have turned to opiates. Alcohol and drug usage have exploded.” She says that it is no longer uncommon for people to die of liver damage because of alcohol abuse, that illegal distilling of hard liquor is widespread, and that marijuana and hash are smoked like cigarettes. The drug ecstasy is widely used because it cannot be easily detected. “People are bored. They don’t have anything to do, so they go for drugs and alcohol.”

A Life in Tehran
One less destructive way of channelling boredom and anger is through the arts, such as contemporary dance. Due to lack of facilities and training, though, performances remain rare. In dance schools traditional dances are taught to women, although with strictly prescribed choreography. And women can dance in public only if fully covered, their eyes and hands included.

Hava has toured the world performing with contemporary dance companies: “People are very surprised when I tell them I am from Iran. Nobody ever heard of an Iranian contemporary dancer before.” She attends workshops abroad whenever she has a chance because “there really isn’t much in Iran . . . I was lucky to get a chance to perform on stage. Even when we performed in foreign countries we were obliged to wear the hijab, on stage as well as privately.”
She complains of Iran’s misogynist puritanism, of the way that religion is pushed into everything, which “stops you from everything. You cannot enjoy your life because it’s a sin, you cannot walk because it’s a sin, you cannot be seen because it’s a sin.”

‘Letters from Tentland’
The Iranian government officially claims that it invests large amounts in arts and culture, but the money is rarely evident within the country, and there is little international co-operation. A notable exception was Letters from Tentland (2), 2004, the first ranian dance production to employ a foreign choreographer, which was created with support from the Dramatic Arts Centre in Tehran and the Goethe Institut in Germany. It was directed by Helena Waldmann, a German choreographer whose speciality is concealing the visible, and showed six women dancing and moving inside tents on stage.

“I loved coming to Tehran”, Waldmann said. “The first day I was going to meet the actresses the chief of the arts centre told me: ‘They are inside waiting for you. By the way, they are the most famous actresses in Iran.’ I was worried about this, but they all turned out to be great. They were the divas of Iran and I had to tell them to get into a tent as if we were going camping.”

The performance premiered at the International Fadjr-Festival in Tehran in 2005, and afterwards “we invited the women from the audience for tea and a chat behind the curtain,” Waldmann said. “It was very intense. Many women told us they couldn’t believe the performance was not censored. We kept the tea-and-chat after the performance idea throughout our world tour.”

Waldmann is interested in hiding performers from audiences. In her 1997 Vodka konkav she installed five glass panels behind which the dancers performed; the audience, sitting in front of the fourth panel, saw them only indirectly. Therefore Letters from Tentland was “was a logical continuation of what I’ve done since The Malady of Death in 1993, a play with visibility and invisibility . . . The craziest thing is that this game of visibility/invisibility is exactly the case in Iran. Women are inside tents, their hijabs as well as actual tents. I continued in the same artistic direction. I went to this country, Iran, where it is mandatory for women to be hidden.”

Letters from Tentland toured 17 countries and was performed 43 times, but was censored this year in Iran. Waldmann was not discouraged and has directed a new piece, Return to Sender — Letters from Tentland, with Iranian dancers in exile, which premiered at the 2006 Montpellier Dance Festival. In the original performance the final scene showed dancers huddled in a tent, who shyly looked towards the audience wondering if there was anyone out there hearing them. They invited people to come into their tent. At a performance in Vienna, just as they were about to zip the tent closed, a Mexican woman in the audience got up and went to join them. They smiled. A beautiful act of solidarity could not have been expressed more honestly.

Some of the names in this story have been changed to preserve privacy.

(1) Akram Mirhosseini, “After the Revolution” in Peters and Wolper, eds, Women’s Rights, Human Rights, Routledge, New York, 1995.
(2) www.lettersfromtentland.com

See also
Letters from Tentland

Similar articles
CEREMONIES OF TRUST – PARADES & CHANGES, REPLAYS
MÃO NA BOCA (HAND ON THE MOUTH)

first published in October 2006
photo © Franz Kimmel
Click Here to Read More..

BORDERS OF THE MIDDLE EAST: TAL ADLER
by Jessie Emkic

The Israeli pro-Palestinian artists are in a precarious position. Facing hardliners at home, they also face rejection from Palestinian institutions. About acceptance and rejection of political art.

Tal Adler is an Israeli artist living and working in Jerusalem. He occasionally teaches at art institutions and is passionate about traveling to other countries.
Unrecognized is a project documenting the lives of Bedouins made refugees when their land was taken away in 1948 in the course of the establishment of Israel. Today they live in unrecognized villages. About this project, Tal says: “I chose to deal with a specific social and political situation in which the Bedouins of the Negev desert are involved. The project is part of an ongoing movement to recognize these villages and to establish civil equality. The situation in the Negev is nowadays really unequal and urgent, and I felt I had to contribute something to interfere with it and join the movement for change.” Although topics such as these are not mainstream, Tal doesn’t see himself as a part of the left underground art scene in Israel. He rejects definitions, since things constantly change and are more complex in the Middle East. It’s choices and circumstances of individuals that are in question, not scenes. “I usually don’t deal with politics, but do politics. It's not ‘talking about’, it's ‘doing’. More so, it’s a way of examining ‘political art’ - if the project has a quality of change/ interference/ creation or just observation/ discussion. It’s passive vs. active.” But definitions can confuse and oversimplify. They change and are usually dichotomous, whereas life, particularly in his region, is much more complex.

I asked him about collaborations with artists from neighboring countries. “I only have few connections with artists in Egypt,” he says, “that is if you don’t consider Palestine as a neighboring country. I have good relations with Palestinian artists. Unfortunately, Jewish Israelis find it almost impossible to have meaningful or creative relationships with the other countries like Lebanon, Syria, Iran, Jordan, Saudi Arabia etc., because of our political circumstances. From experience, these artists will not and cannot collaborate with us. They refuse to participate in shows with Israelis. I can find maybe a Syrian blogger and maybe do some long distance internet thing, but this is shallow. I'm interested in real relationships or collaborations in projects, which is impossible at the moment. However, I think I do have some kind of a possibility of beginning in Egypt.” The reasons for a lack of collaborations are political and also involve politics of the art world and local art scenes. Most Palestinian art institutions and artists now have a new automatic answer to refuse to exhibit with Israelis, no matter what the context is. “I can understand the rejection,” he says, “and in many cases I can agree about the refusal when the context is being imposed on the artists and they feel that it's inappropriate. But lately, as I experience it, the refusal has become an automated refusal which, as most automated processes, is not so coherent and not so intelligent.” According to Tal, this total exclusion doesn’t reflect life, especially not in the Middle East, where it’s complex and multilayered. For him, a total boycott is a clear aspect of racism. Another serious hurdle in collaborating together is the danger it imposes on Arab artists who collaborate with Israelis. It can even be fatal to their careers. But as Tal puts it, “...the separation which both ‘mainstream’ sides wish for is a utopia and will never be really possible.”

See also
Tal Adler's items: official website
Tal Adler talks about his project Unrecognized

Similar articles
CINEMATIC ARCHITECTURE
MAZEN AND 'THE GUCCI REVOLUTION'


first published in November 2007
photo Um ratam © Tal Adler


Click Here to Read More..

MAZEN AND 'THE GUCCI REVOLUTION'
by Jessie Emkic

Humour and irony may make you laugh, but can a blog filled with political comics serve better as a source of information than traditional media? The Lebanese comics author and musician Mazen Kerbaj succeeded in creating such a blog. Like a modern Chaplin reporting from inside the events and from inside his own art, hence Kerbaj is often the main character in his comics traped inside the script of real events.

It was last year during Israel’s invasion of Lebanon that I encountered Mazen’s work for the first time. His blog drew my attention. He would regularly post cartoons depicting his impressions of the invasion, adding a good portion of self-irony to make his point clear. Throughout the entire invasion he would draw, make music and write everyday ceaselessly to “keep his sanity”, as he says. His work drew large international attention. “Sometimes I meet people after a gig in Europe. They come to me and say: ‘We spoke to you during the war’. I don’t know what I should answer. It was in fact quite a frenetic period back then, and I barely have any souvenir of all the people I spoke to.” Sometimes he would receive more than hundred of emails per day. A large majority of these were supportive, but there were some detractors too. Mazen takes it with humour: “In a way, I was more capable of answering these than totally cheesy comments of some supporters. Receiving a comment like: ‘I am with you from Costa Rica,’ while you are in a really incredible, but interesting state of mind as you hear bombs fall on your city, trying to cope with the situation and continue your ‘art’ - it brings you back to the real world. In a sense it shows you clearly what the reality is of support that you and the country and getting.”















top: Gaza on my mind; above: Gaza under the rain.

Unfortunately, some people totally misunderstood the message he was conveying with his drawings. It made him appear a victim, although he was simply discharging his fear on paper. He was trying to protect himself from going insane. “I even got the greatest comment one day,” he says, “after a drawing where I’m vomiting because of too much whiskey: ‘You shouldn't drink alcohol, it is bad for your health, you know.’ Reading this while a bomb is falling 3 kilometers away from your house is pretty surreal.”
He spent his childhood in the Lebanese civil war until he turned fifteen. The food and medical aid the Lebanese would receive consisted of goods which had expired years earlier. This is customary with humanitarian aid regardless of the country it’s sent to. He says ‘divide and conquer’ seems to be working very well in his region. But not everything is dusky. Beirut is known as the “Paris of the Middle East” glowing with glamour. People are fashion conscious to such an extent that during the great riots in 2005 citizens of Beirut would refer to them as the ‘Gucci Revolution’.

Mazen started drawing at the age of three and hasn’t stopped since. Many of the comics he draws deal with politics and war, but he doesn’t want to do what many Occidental artists do, namely use war as a primary topic for a study. “In a sense, I wanted to prove - to myself - that it was possible to do interesting stuff without stressing your ‘difference’.” The assassination of the notable journalist Samir Kassir in 2005, his friend and mentor, left a deep scar. “I couldn't stop drawing during the week that followed. It was a sort of a therapy.” Mazen ended up printing 10.000 copies of these drawings with the help of some friends and donators. They were published under the title ‘UNE SEMAINE SANS LA VOIX DE SAMIR’ (Engl. A Week Without Samir’s Voice) and distributed with Le Monde - Edition Proche Orient.

Mazen explores his creativity also in music, engaging in international collaborations with other musicians. He’s regularly invited to play gigs in Europe. With neighbouring countries it’s different. There’s no collaboration with Israel whatsoever. According to a Lebanese law one is not even allowed to speak to an Israeli. And yet, he received many supportive mails from Israeli musicians during the Israeli invasion and was astounded how many of them knew the Beirut music scene - a proof that art surpasses all borders.

Listen
STARRY NIGHT (excerpt) 6.31 min
a minimalistic improvisation by:
mazen kerbaj / trumpet
the israeli air force / bombs

Watch
Mazen Kerbaj * Raed Yassin * Charbel Haber: Live in Beirut

See also
kerbaj.com
www.mazenkerblog.blogspot.com

Similar articles
BORDERS OF THE MIDDLE EAST: TAL ADLER
CINEMATIC ARCHITECTURE

first published in November 2007
illustrations © Mazen Kerbaj

Click Here to Read More..

‘FASHION WILL GO OUT OF FASHION’
Interview with Brigitte Felderer
by Jessie Emkic























Brigitte Felderer speaks about the infantilization of the fashion body and her admiration for the US-Austrian cult fashion designer Rudi Gernreich, whose bold statement “Fashion will go out of fashion” became a self-fulfilled prophecy in 21st century. Felderer is curator of numerous exhibitions and events, among them Tanzquartier’s Island Nr. 2 Quick Change. She is a cultural scientist and teaches at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna.

PARADOXES OF FASHION AND DANCE
Brigitte Felderer: On one hand, fashion is an integral medium of our personality, our self-expression and inevitably our self-esteem, yet we buy it from the stack as ready-made clothing. Fashion is an incredible paradox in this sense and dance is a constructive misconception too. Performance is an artistic discourse rather associated with high culture and it demands essential understanding from its audience. Fashion though, is a very popular language and it affects everyone. The choreographers and dancers mistrust the fashionable. Not good clothes, but these superficial vain aspects associated with fashion. In opposition to this, the question of authenticity is fervently discussed in dance today: how do you succeed in transferring concepts of naturalness, but also prosaicness into performance? Fashion seems to stand against this, as it’s something that enshrouds, distracts. It always appears on the body, but is presented to the world on catwalks and fashion shows where the clothes are in movement, otherwise it wouldn’t make much sense. Fashion confronts us virtually through the media, the internet, fashion magazines. Images are created, messages sent out, if you wish. So, in reality fashion - which is different from clothing - doesn’t confront us in a material or haptic way, but exclusively though pictures and images.


FASHION AND SEXUALITY
BF: Professional fashion has a peculiar way of handling sexuality for only specific bodies can access it. Very young girls must fit into a very specific body scheme in order to be accepted as models in the first place. What happens in fashion is that a singular neutralization and infantilization of the body is undertaken for this body to be subsequently ornamented, dressed and equipped, and that’s about that. A great physical exertion is required, but at the same time you try to keep the body as untouchable and open as possible. This is an incredibly fetishistic, somewhat perverse projection surface.


RUDI GERNREICH
BF: Some years ago I dealt long and intensively with the Austrian fashion designer Rudi Gernreich. The name sounded very interesting and amusing (N.B.: “Gernreich” means “gladly rich”). I learned that he was in fact a born-and-bred Viennese and in 1938 was suddenly considered Jewish under the Nazi rule, but luckily managed to save himself and his mother by emigrating to Los Angeles. He had various survival jobs as a 16 year-old in LA, but soon started designing clothes. It wasn’t a coincidence that the first clothes Gernreich designed were actually dance costumes, made for a communistic politically orientated dance company he associated with.


MATTACHINE SOCIETY AND HARRY HAY
BF: There was a connection between Rudi Gernreich and Harry Hay who was an important Marxist in California. Hay was also an underground activist who secretly organized the first US gay liberation movement that went by the name of the Mattachine Society in the 1950’s, and Gernreich was one of the key founders. Hay and Gernreich were a couple at the time and Hay transferred his organizational know-how to Gernreich who himself came from a political family closely linked to the Austro-Marxists in Vienna. I find this important for the context, because if you look at Gernreich’s clothes or his later designs, you can see clearly that for him designing clothes was not about making the body look sexy, but about changing the society, the gender codes in the clothes and these never ending clichés fashion has produced.


UNISEX
BF: The UNISEX photo we used as leitmotiv for Tanzquartier’s Quick Change was taken in 1970 for Gernreich’s same named project, which he presented in Osaka at the world exhibition. By the end of 1970, he was asked how he imagined future fashion to be and his concept was unisex. Choreographer Anna Halprin, who introduced nudity so intensively in her performances, started off during Gernreich’s time, namely in the mid 1960’s when his ‘monokini’ came out (N.B.: Monokini is not a bikini without the top, but a bathing suite with breasts left open). What is interesting is that the performers in Halprins and Collods „parades & changes, replays“ were truly naked once they undressed, not just stage-naked. It was an intimate state that left you feeling as if you were thrown into a voyeuristic role. I thought to myself “how come I feel like this?” It was precisely this relationship between choreography, in the sense of movement and self-expression, and clothes Gernreich explored, as well as the question what do clothes provide and what do they block.


GERNREICH'S FASHION CONCEPT
BF: According to Gernreich, clothes should be subordinated to the development of the personality and shouldn’t act as a corset or a crutch in this sense. They are there to strengthen the self-esteem, not to compensate for it. For Gernreich, clothes weren’t a consumer product you shop for to make yourself feel better. Clothes were something political to him. They are there to emphasize the naturalness of the person and not to disguise or deform. For this reason, he was massively against clothes constricting the body in any way. He contemplated if there ought to be clothes without any seams whatsoever that can nestle up to the body like a second skin. Second Skin: This is of course, the really big question – to what extent do the clothes connect with the authentic? Do they become a second skin or do we assume roles in different costumes?

Watch
Rudi Gernreich's costumes for the first season of Space 1999

Similar articles
CEREMONIES OF TRUST – PARADES & CHANGES, REPLAYS
DAILY PRACTICE OF READING PEOPLE
DANCE FASHION WEAR DANCE
’FREEDOM IS DOING WHAT IS ACCEPTABLE FOR YOU’

Unisex; photo © Julian Wasser
Click Here to Read More..